A guide to Gaudí

Few cities are so characterized by "one mind" as Barcelona. Antoni Gaudi's name will always be synonymous with Barcelona. He created the most emblematic of all buildings in the city, La Sagrada Familia. The unfinished temple is, however, not the only work of his that draw visitors to the city.Visiting Barcelona also means visiting Gaudi. This is a guide to where you can find Gaudi in Barcelona. The buildings (and the park) are presented according to geographical location.

The Old Town

Palau Güell - C. Nou de la Rambla, 3-5. It would be unfair not to give Eusebi Güell credit for Gaudí's success and imaginative constructions in the city. The Catalan businessman commissioned the young architect to pen his home in the then pretty run down El Raval area. Güell had a penchant for odd locations. The newly renovated home of Güell is open to public and located just off Las Ramblas in the El Raval neighborhood. The design is more "rigid" contrasted to the fluidity of lines that would characterize Gaudí's later works, but it showcases a lot of the details that made the architect such an original!

Grácia

Parc Güell - D'Olot This park is not only the best picnic location in town, but a brilliantly planned housing project (financed by Esuebi Güell) that fell through and became a park. The architect himself was the only "tenant" in the real estate project, living in a small house!) that now is a park museum. Casa Vicenç - Carolines 24 (not open for general public) This privately own building was another private commission from a ceramics factory owner. The access to discount ceramics gave Gaudí the license to decorate the facade in colorful tiles.

Eixample

Casa Milá - "La Pedrera" (the quarry) C. Provença, 261-265 (with Passeig de Grácia) Open to the public. Nicknamed "the quarry" for its shape. The surreal chimneys on the rooftop is a must-see. In summer the house is host to the "La Pedrera de nit" - jazz concerts with a spectacular rooftop setting! Casa Batlló - Passeig de Gracia, 43. The facade is another symbol of Barcelona with both fascinating details and a awe inspiring design. Casa Calvet - C. De Casp,48 (not open for general public). The least typical and most straight-forward of Gaudí's construction. Constricted to the limitations of space Gaudí kept his wild imagination in check to create a rather conventional building with a few outstanding details.

La Sagrada Familia - Marina, 276

"No one" visits Barcelona without visiting La Sagrada Familia! Sydney has its opera house, New York its statue of liberty and Paris the Eiffel tower, all unique structures with significant symbolic weight. The exceptional story of the temple of Sagrada Familia and the space that its creator occupies in Catalan history makes it stand out as something more than a "mere" city "emblem". The "never ending story" of the temple began in 1883. In fact, much earlier, but the eventful process regarding choice of architect culminated in Gaudí taking over and starting what he saw as his lifelong mission. Unfortunately, in 1926, he was killed by a tram in Barcelona, and chaos ensued.

Despite it's erratic development and unfinished status, La Sagrada Familia has come to symbolize Barcelona.The temple symbolizes Catalan culture, independence of thought, limitless creativity, spirituality, resilience and controversy. And, this list could go on endlessly. As to "controversy", this word might be seen as particularly descriptive of the beginnings, history and fate of the building. There has been controversy from Gaudí started "taking liberties" with christian symbolism, to financing the project after his premature death, how to interpret the original plan (with significant documents/drawings missing ), the esthetics issues and finally more financing controversy!

George Orwell, author of "1984" once said that it was "a shame" that the temple survived the attacks on it during the Spanish civil war! Orwell might have changed his mind with time and seen the design as less about religion and more about the imagination of man! Apparently his desire to see the temple in rubble was more due to a revulsion over its esthetics than it being a religious symbol. Still to this day opinions are profoundly divided about Gaudí in general and La Sagrada Familia in particular. I would not recommend waiting until its "completion" (now scheduled sometime between 2017-26), but to see it now in its "proper" state, as an unfinished masterpiece (or mad whim).

In conclusion, all Gaudi's creation are worth a visit and following the "modernisme" route (available in all tourist info spots) you can cover them all including other exceptional buildings by other architects of the era like the amazing Palau de la Música. NB! Make sure your camera battery is loaded!


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For accommodation close by La Sagrada Familia and in other central Barcelona areas: Barcelona holiday rentals.